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Click on the subject(s) below to find out more about the regions,
parishes, towns and villages which make up County Donegal.
Tír Chonaill, Tirconnell, County Donegal – these are the names
which have been used over the centuries to describe Ireland’s northernmost county.
‘County Donegal’ is the name now generally used, although Gaelic speakers in the
West and South West of the County often call their native place ‘Tír Chonaill’.
The county takes its name from the town at the head of Donegal Bay.
When Ireland was being divided into counties in the late 16th century, the administration
in Dublin Castle saw that town, Dún na nGall, which means 'Fort of the Foreigners' in
English, as the main stronghold in the region and so gave its name to the entire county.
The name Tír Chonaill denotes territory associated with a powerful
historical figure – Conall Gulban; this Conall [brother of Eoghan who gave his name
both the peninsula of Inishowen (Inis Eoghain) and the neighbouring county of Tyrone (Tír
Eoghain)] lived well over a thousand years ago but his memory lives on. Conall and Eoghan
were sons of the equally famous Niall Noigiallach or Niall of the Nine Hostages. You can
find out more about these historical / legendary figures by going to 'Donegal People' in
this website.
It should be noted that while Inishowen, the peninsula which ends in
Malin Head, is usually considered not to be included in 'Tír Chonaill', it was indeed
part of the territory during the high point of O'Donnell rule. While for a long period it
was part of the territory of the O’Neills or Cenel Eoghain, in medieval times it was
ruled by the O’Dohertys, who were of the Cenel Chonaill.
While county and regional boundaries have always been arbitrary to a
degree, Donegal has long been recognised as a distinct place, or maybe more accurately, a
grouping of distinct places. Various early sources, including the Book of Fenagh a
manuscript dating from the 11th century, and the Red book of the Earls of Kildare from the
13th century, after the Norman invasion, describe the districts of Tír Chonaill,
‘Conall’s territory’. These included Tír Aodha, Tír Luighdheach, Tír
Baghaine, Tír Éanna, as well as Inis Eoghain and Magh Éine which for long periods were
outside the control of Conall’s successors.
These Old Territorial Divisions might not mean much today, but what is
interesting about them is that they are all derived from the names of people, either real
or legendary. In a place with such striking natural features, the early inhabitants chose
not to collectively name themselves after the local mountains, lough or river, but rather
to give the territory they occupied the name of their most cherished ancestor.
The people linked by blood and loyalty to the powerful Gaelic figures
in history were collectively known as ‘Cenel’, which broadly means ‘kindred
of or people of’. Thus the Cenel Chonaill were the kindred/people of Conall. The
territory in which they lived was known as Tír Chonaill, the ‘land of Conall’
or, perhaps more appropriately, the ‘land of the people of Conall‘. The people
associated with Conall’s brother Eoghan were known as the Cenel Eoghain, and they
occupied Tír Eoghain, later anglicised as Tyrone, as well as Inis Eoghain or Inishowen,
the island of Eoghain.
This is the most clearly defined of the areas of Donegal, and once was
virtually the island that the name ‘Inis’ suggests. It is shaped like a large
kite, with Lough Swilly to the west, Malin Head (the most northerly point in Ireland) at
the top, Lough Foyle on the east. It is ‘joined’ to the rest of the country by
the City of Derry and the Grianan of Aileach.
The ‘Inis Eoghain 100’, a one hundred mile scenic drive
around the peninsula, goes to all the main areas of attraction and might be said to be
Donegal’s answer to the Ring of Kerry. You could usefully start at Buncrana, a
seaside resort long patronised by people from Derry and other places in Northern Ireland,
and the largest town in the peninsula. Driving north from Buncrana the road runs past
Dunree and up to the Gap of Mamore, one of Ireland’s highest mountain passes, and
well worth a visit by those with a head for heights. Travelling in a clockwise direction
one comes to Clonmany, Ballyliffin, Carndonagh, Malin Town, Culdaff, Greencastle, Moville
and back through Muff to Derry.
The villages of Clonmany and Ballyliffin close by each other, are good
centres from which to view the sea shores, hills, bogs and loughs of this part of
Inishowen. Carndonagh is the main town of northern Inis Eoghain and is an important
educational and shopping centre. From here the road runs through Malin Town and on to
Ballygorman and Malin Head.
On a clear day one can see the coasts of Derry and Antrim - sometimes
even the islands of Scotland - and the vastness of the Atlantic Ocean from here. To the
South of Carndonagh lies Glentogher, with its typically ‘Donegal’ landscapes.
On the Lough Foyle side of Inis Eoghain lie the important fishing port
of Greencastle, which is home to the National Fisheries School, and the charming and well
laid out seaside resort of Moville. Around Inishowen head from Greencastle is Kinnago Bay,
scene of one of the tragic shipwrecks of the Spanish Armada. Further south along the Lough
Foyle shore are Redcastle and Muff, the former a popular seaside resort.
In the area between the mountains of Inishowen and the fertile lands
of East Donegal are the hamlets of Burnfoot, Bridgend, Newtowncunningham, Manorcunningham,
St.Johnston and Carrigans.
The most remarkable structure in the peninsula in the Grianan of
Aileach. The earliest works date from the Early Iron age, and the present Fort dates
probably from the 6th century A.D. Much of it was restored in the 1870’s. The Grianan
was the ancient royal house of the Cenel Eoghain, later the Ui Néill, and it remained an
important focus for them even when their territorial power shifted to Mid-Ulster. There is
another old stone fort at Umgall near Malin town, but this is in a much ruined state. The
castles of Inis Eoghain include O’Doherty’s castle in Buncrana, built in the
14th Century; Burt castle (near Newtowncunningham) erected in the 16th Century by the
O’Doherty’s to a Scottish design; De Burgo’s castle in Greencastle called
Northburg, erected in 1305 on the site of an earlier fortress; another O’Doherty
castle at Carrickabraghey (near Ballyliffin) built in the 16th Century; and Inch castle,
in ruins since the 16th century but very intersting archaeologically.
Six forts were built on Lough Swilly to protect the Lough from a
French attack at the beginning of the 19th century. Three of these are on the Inis Eoghain
side - Fort Dunree (now housing a military museum), Ned’s Point Battery (near
Buncrana), and the Down of Inch.
Ecclesiastical remains include Cooley Churchyard, Moville with
it’s cross and skull house; Donagh Cross, outside Carndonagh, the oldest standing
cross in Ireland; Cloncha old church, associated with St. Morialagh; the Friar’s Cell
at Ballelaghan near Malin Town, and Balleeghan Friary (Manorcunningham) built in the 15th
century by the O’Donnell’s for the Third Order of Franciscans. Other remains
worth seeing are the Old Leckemy Sweathouse (an old Irish form of Turkish bath), and
Gulladuff Old Bridge which lays claim to being the oldest in Ireland, both near Moville.
GAELTACHT DHÚN na nGALL / WEST DONEGAL
West Donegal is more or less contiguous with the Gaeltacht areas of Na
Rosa (The Rosses) whose main town is An Clochán Liath [Dungloe], Gaoth Dobhair, Cloch
Cheann Fhaola, and its town of An Fál Carrach [Falcarragh] and Gaeltacht Lár Thir
Chonaill. Na Rosa is bounded on the South by the Gweebarra River. The Gaeltacht (Irish
speaking area) also includes South West Donegal. The little villages of Cill Charthaigh
(Kilcar) and An Charraig (Carrick) are on the road to Gleann Cholm Cille (Glencolmcille).
This area is one of the highlights of any visit to Donegal, combining breathtaking sea
views, many heritage monuments and a still living traditional way of life. West Donegal
also includes the mainly English-speaking areas around Ardara and Glenties.
Leitir Mhic A’Bhaird is a scattered community on the northern
side of the river. From there one can travel to either An Dubhchoraidh (Doochary) or
Dungloe. The former is a small village in a very scenic surroundings and the drive between
here and Baile na Finne (Fintown) is well worth a detour. An Clochán Liath / Dungloe is
the main town of Na Rosa (The Rosses) and of West Donegal and a very popular destination
especially in July and August when the Mary from Dungloe Festival brings people from all
over the Irish, and particularly the Donegal, diaspora. From Dungloe one can take a
circuit of Na Rosa, firstly to Alt a’Chorain (Burtonport), the ferry point for Arainn
Mhoir island, then on past Cruit Island through the craggy outcrops of Cionn Caslach to
Anagaire (Annagry). At Croichshli (Crolly) one turns south again past the breathtaking
wildness around Loch an Iuir (Loughanure) to Dungloe.
The other main area in the West of the County is Cloch Cheann Fhaola
(Cloughaneely). This is a mainly coastal area centred on An Falcarrach (Falcarragh) and
Gort a’Choirce (Gortahork). The coastal scenery here is exquisite with the mountains
of Muckish, Aghla Beg, Aghla More and Errigal in the background, yet is more sheltered
than that of Na Rosa and Gaoth Dobhair.
Gleann Cholm Cille and the Slieve League peninsula are as renowned for
their historic as much as their natural heritage. In Glen itself are the twelve standing
stones of the ‘turas’, made by local people each June 9th, Colmcille’s day.
The stones are from the 9th Century. Also in the area are St. Colmcille’s Chapel and
well, the standing stones and cromlechs of Cloghanmore, the Martello Tower at Glen Head,
the remarkable deserted fishing village of Port, and the antiquities associated with St.
Aodh Mac Bric and Rathlin O’Birne island. On the island of Iniskeel are the churches
(13th century) and crosses (8th century) of St. Conal near Dungloe is the old church of
Templecrone, connected with Cróine, a female relative of Colmcille. Nearby is the 15th
Century Tower of Crohy Head. Outside Ardara is the Kilclooney Dolmen, known as Diarmuid
and Grainne’s Bed.
Toraigh (Tory) Island has some interesting sites associated with Balor and Colmcille.
The ecclesiastical remains include two churches, a round tower and two crosses. At
Falcarragh can be seen the Churchyard of Myrath, St. Colmcille’s cross and the
Cloughaneely Stone (Cloch Cheann Fhaola) which gives it’s name to this part of the
Gaeltacht.
South Donegal wraps around Donegal Bay, with the Bluestacks [also
known as the Croaghs or Na Cruacha Gorma] and the forbidding gap of Barnesmore as its
northern boundary. Starting at the county's southernmost town, Bundoran, one comes to
Ballyshannon, past Rossnowlagh and into Donegal Town, and then weswards along the bay
though Mountcharles and Killybegs and into Cill Chartha [Kilcar], An Charraigh [Carrick]
and Gleann Cholm Cille [Glencolumbkille].
Many of the historic remains most associated with Donegal are in this
part of the County. In Donegal itself are Donegal Castle erected by the
O’Donnell’s in 1474 with the manor house added by Sir Basil Brooke early in the
1600’s and Donegal Abbey, home of the Four Masters, also build in 1474, as a
Franciscan Friary by the first Red Hugh O’Donnell. In the Ballyshannon area are the
ruins of the Abbey of Assaroe, a Cistercian house founded in 1178, Kilbarron Churhc (13th
Century) and Kilbarron Castle, the seat of the O’Clery family.
Termonmagrath Castle in Pettigo was built in the early 17th Century
when the area was not part of Donegal. Termon was the birthplace of Myler MacGrath, the
Franciscan friar who became Church of Ireland Archbishop of Cashel having been Catholic
Bishop of Down. In the Dunkineely area can be found Killaghtee old Churchyard with
it’s 17th Century cross slab and church, and McSwynes castle. The sculptured
gravestone of Niall Garbh MacSuibhne, originally found in St. John's Point, is in the
grounds of the Catholic Church, Killybegs.
North and East Donegal comprises the area to the east of Letterkenny
and the area to the north of the town.
Some of the county's most historic towns are to be found between
Letterkenny and the border with Co. Tyrone: Lifford, which is on the Border, the twin
towns of Ballybofey / Stranorlar, and Raphoe.
The coastline of North Donegal is cut by three large inlets:
Sheephaven, Mulroy Bay and Lough Swilly. These expanses of water with the surrounding
shores and villages together constitute a wonderful resource for outdoor leisure
activities and especially activities-based holidays; water sports, hill walking, pony
trekking - in splendid and varied settings.
Sheephaven is bounded on the west by Horn Head and the villages of
Dunfanaghy, Portnablagh and Creeslough, on the South by the picturesque Lackagh Bridge and
the village of Glen, and on the east by the Rosguill peninsula and the seaside villages of
Downings and Carrigart.
Sheephaven is bounded by golden beaches such as Dunfanaghy, Ards,
Marble Hill, Rosapenna and Tranarossan. The Atlantic Drive at the top of Rosguill, should
not be missed.
Mulroy Bay, now one of Ireland’s leading centres for aquaculture,
is a long and comparatively narrow inlet enclosed by wooded hills, and presents a very
different picture of Sheephaven. The western shore, particularly, is very picturesque. The
town of Milford is located at its southern point. Fanad, the second largest peninsula,
after Inishowen, contains deserted seashores, sandy sheltered beaches and rugged inland
hills and glens. Bounded on the west by Mulroy Bay, and on the east by the wide and deep
Lough Swilly, Fanad reflects many of the vicissitudes of Donegal’s history including
the Flight of the Earls and agitation during the time of the land league. Portsalon strand
and the Knockalla Coast Road are numbered with the most scenic areas of Donegal.
Lough Swilly is one of the finest natural harbours in Ireland,
although it has never been commercially developed. Rathmullan and Ramelton are two
attractive villages on Lough Swilly.
This, the most fertile part of the County, has a fine heritage of ecclesiastical
remains. Gartan, birthplace of Colm Cille, has in its environs, St. Columba’s Church,
a rubble-built chapel; the ‘Flagstone of loneliness’; Colmcille’s
‘natal Stone’; and Templedouglas Abbey where Colmcille baptised St. Cruithnecan.
Killydonnell Friary near Ramelton, founded in 1471 as a Franciscan house; Mevagh church
(Carrigart), believed to date from the 12th Century; Doon Rock and Doon Well, near
Kilmacrennan, an important place of assembly and worship in ancient times; St.
Garvan’s Cross at Drumhallagh north of Rathmullan, dating from the 10th Century; and
Conwal Cemetery, outside Letterkenny, with it’s ruined church and many ancient graves
are all worth seeing. Rathdonnell Fort, near Churchill with it’s well preserved moat
and outer walls, and Doe Castle, associated with the MacSuibhne, although built by the
Quinn family in the 16th Century, are the most important fortifications in North Donegal.
Fort Stewart (Ramelton), Faugher (Dunfanaghy), and Bishop Leslie’s Palace at Raphoe
are important remains from Plantation times. The other three Swilly ports (see Inis
Eoghain) are at Rathmullan, Knockalla and Macamoosh, on the Fanad peninsula.
In County Donegal as in other counties, there are both Civil Parishes
and Catholic Parishes. Click on Donegal County Atlas map no 82 to see outline of both kinds of parishes
in County Donegal.
Click on Donegal County Atlas maps no 16, 17, and
18 to see outline of townlands in County
Donegal.
Click on Donegal County Atlas maps 20, 21, and 22 to see outline of District Electoral
Divisions in County Donegal.
Tír Chonaill has been recognised as a distinct place - or to
be exact, a grouping of distinct places - for many centuries. Tír Chonaill comprised the
following districts: Tír Luighdheach, from Farsetmore near Letterkenny to Dobhar, the
river between Gaoth Dobhair and the Rosses; Tír Baghaine (modern Banagh), from Dobhar to
the Eany Water, west of Donegal Town; Tír Aodha (modern Tirhugh) from the Eany Water to
Assaroe on the Erne, and Tír Éanna from Barnesmore to Ros Goill (the modern baronies of
Raphoe North and South, including the Lagan).
Tír Aodha (the land of Aodh or Hugh, modern Tirhugh) stretches from
the Eany Water near Inver to Assaroe on the River Erne. The Aodh after whom the area was
called was the Aodh Ruadh who also gave his name to the Assaroe falls - Eas Ruaidh the
cataract of (Aodh) Ruadh; thus Tirhugh is the only one of the major divisions of Tír
Chonaill not called after a descendant of Niall Noigiallach.
Tír Baghaine (modern Banagh, which takes its name from Éanna
Baghainne, one of the seven sons of Conall), includes all the territory west of the Eany
Water and south of the river Dobhar, which marks the southern boundary of Gaoth Dobhair
(Gweedore).
Tír Luighdheach is roughly similar to the barony of Kilmacrennan,
with its eastern boundary at Farsetmore on the River Swilly outside Letterkenny, and its
western boundary along one of the most important internal boundaries of Donegal, even to
the present day, the Gweedore or Crolly River, which divides the parish of Gweedore from
the Rosses.
The Rosses, that beautiful coastal district, is known in Gaelic as
‘idir an dá Ghaoith’ i.e. between the Gweedore (Gaoth Dobhair) and Gweebarra
(Gaoth Barra) Rivers. In later medieval times the MacSuibhne territories of Fanad and Doe
were to a large degree autonomous, making Tír Luighdheach smaller in area.
Magh Éine, between the rivers Erne and Drowes, did not form part of
historical Tír Chonaill, but was a frontier territory often in dispute between the
O’Donnells and O’Neills.
Inis Eoghain or Inishowen has always been a distinct territory bounded
by Lough Swilly to the west, Malin Head (the most northerly point in Ireland) to the
north, and Lough Foyle on the east. It is ‘joined’ to the rest of the country by
the City of Derry and the Grianan of Aileach. While part of the county since the region
was ‘shired’ at the end of the 16th century, this is one old
territorial division which has retained its sense of itself.
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